Aerynx
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Wash & Dry

Specific protocols for washing waterproof membranes without damaging the DWR coating.

Wash & Dry: How to Clean Waterproof Gloves Without Ruining the “Magic”

There is a common myth in the outdoor world that washing waterproof gear (like Gore-Tex or eVent gloves) ruins it. The opposite is actually true. Dirt, body oils, and campfire smoke clog the microscopic pores that allow the glove to breathe. Worse, dirt attracts water, masking the DWR (Durable Water Repellent) coating and causing the fabric to “wet out” (get heavy and soggy).

However, you can’t just toss $150 technical gloves in with your towels and hope for the best. Standard detergents are the enemy of waterproof membranes.

Here is the specific protocol for washing waterproof membranes without killing the DWR.

The “Do Not” List (Read This First)

Before you touch a dial on your washing machine, commit these to memory. Violating these will strip your gloves of their superpowers.

  • NO Fabric Softener: This is the #1 killer. Softeners coat fibers in a waxy substance that destroys breathability and water repellency.
  • NO Standard Detergent: Tide, Ariel, and similar detergents contain wetting agents (to help water penetrate clothes) and fragrances. You want the opposite—you want water to bead up.
  • NO Powder Detergent: The grit can fail to dissolve fully and clog the membrane.
  • NO Wringing: Never twist a waterproof glove; you might separate the membrane from the shell.

Phase 1: The Wash (Synthetic Shells)

Best for: Ski gloves, snowboarding mitts, and mountaineering gloves made mostly of nylon/polyester.

  1. The Prep: Close everything. Zip every zipper, snap every button, and most importantly, attach the Velcro to itself. Loose Velcro in a washing machine acts like a tiny buzzsaw, shredding the mesh liners of your other gear.
  2. The Soap: You need a specific technical cleaner. These rinse away completely without leaving residue.
    • Industry Standards: Nikwax Tech Wash, Grangers Performance Wash, or Gear Aid ReviveX.
  3. The Cycle:
    • Machine: Front-loaders are best. Top-loaders with agitators can snag straps.
    • Setting: Synthetic/Delicate cycle.
    • Temp: Warm (usually 30°C / 85°F). Check the tag, but never use scalding hot water.
    • Rinse: Run an extra rinse cycle to ensure absolutely all soap is gone.

Phase 2: The Wash (Hybrid Leather/Membrane)

Best for: High-end ski gloves with leather palms but waterproof inserts.

Do not machine wash these. The machine cycle that cleans the nylon will ruin the leather.

  1. The “Hand Wash” Protocol: Put the gloves on your hands. Run lukewarm water. Apply a small amount of Tech Wash (see above) to the palm and back of the hand. Rub your hands together gently as if you are washing them.
  2. The Rinse: Rinse carefully, trying to keep the water from flooding the inside of the glove (which takes forever to dry). Squeeze gently from fingers to wrist—do not twist.

Phase 3: Drying & Reactivating the DWR

This is the step most people miss. The DWR coating on the outside of your glove is a polymer. When it gets cold and old, the polymer chains “relax” and flatten out, allowing water to stick.

Heat wakes them up. You need heat to snap those polymer chains back to attention so they stand up and repel water.

  • For Synthetics (No Leather): Tumble dry on low to medium heat. Do not use high heat, or you risk melting the adhesives that hold the glove layers together. Check them every 20 minutes. Once they are dry, give them another 10-15 minutes of tumbling—this is the “activation” phase for the DWR.
  • For Hybrid/Leather Gloves: Do not put them in the dryer. The heat will shrink and crack the leather.
    • Air dry them upright (fingers up).
    • Once dry, use a hairdryer on a low/warm setting. Keep it 6 inches away from the glove and move it constantly over the synthetic parts of the glove to reactivate the DWR.
    • Treat the leather parts with a leather balm immediately.

Phase 4: When Washing Isn’t Enough (Re-Proofing)

If you washed and heat-dried your gloves and water still soaks into the outer fabric rather than beading up, the factory DWR is gone. You need to re-apply it.

Spray-On vs. Wash-In

  • Use Spray-On: For gloves, always use a spray-on waterproofer (like Nikwax TX.Direct Spray-On).
  • Avoid Wash-In: Wash-in waterproofing coats the entire glove, inside and out. This makes the inner lining waterproof/hydrophobic, meaning it will repel your sweat rather than absorbing it, leaving you with clammy hands.
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